Ed Sheeran: After his performance of the hit single “Lego House”, I was disappointed to see Ed sat back down in his casual, baggy green t-shirt. I like the fact Ed Sheeran performs in casual wear as it allows you to get personal with his performance, but to pick up an award in the same clothes he performed in isn’t a stylish move. When it was announced that Ed had won his first award, British Male Solo Artist, we finally got to see a glimpse of Ed’s stylish ways. He wore a slim fit navy suit paired with a white shirt, accessorising with a black skinny tie. He paid extra attention to detailing such as showing his shirt cuffs and accessorising with some silver cufflinks. The overall fit of the suit is something, which also caught our eye, perfectly tailored and a huge change from his baggy, casual appearance. Ed wins best dressed in our minds due to the transformation that we’re not used to, showing versatility with his style. The only thing we didn’t like was the sneakers! He also picked up Best British Breakthrough Act.

Tinie Tempah – On the back of winning GQ’s Best Dressed Man, it was only right he dressed to impress at the Brit awards. After not performing or being nominated for an award this year, he presented Best British Single and looked extremely elegant. His blazer was a huge stand out feature, with extreme detailing such as black silk lapel contrasting against the dark navy. The white chinos offered a shorter length to show off his mankles, and his amazing brown loafers. He accessorised cleverly with his statement see through wayfarers, a luxury watch and a silk scarf layered underneath the blazer.

Other guys that caught our eye was Blur, One Direction, Olly Murs, Labrinth and Bruno Mars.

So who caught your eye? Let us know in the comments below!

By Paul McGregor

Alexander Olch
Band of Outsiders
Drakes
The Elder Statesman
Jean Shop
Oliver Spencer
Our Legacy
Richard James
YMC

Available to buy today, there are only 50 of each style available so get there quick – Mr Porter Birthday Pocket Squares

On the subject of male fashion, and mens shoes in particular, we have been particularly attracted by the ranges on offer at high street own-brand and multi-branded retailers like Next. Next’s collection of mens shoes show a pretty decent range of the kinds of looks made popular and easily accessible by high-street quick-turn-around brands as well as the current trends in designer footwear.

Well, 2012 being an Olympic year, you won’t be surprised to find out that casual, comfortable and sports-inspired footwear is the name of the game. Carrying over from 2011, the Spanish traditional espadrille – a slipper-like canvas slip on which has long been a working-class and mountain-dwelling shoe for people in mountains of India and Nepal, Spain and Latin America, continues to be favoured.

We are also getting back into our teenage skater selves and revisiting big trainers, sneakers and airs of our youth, with brands such as Nike and Reebok. Perhaps it is the nostalgia and excitement elicited by the upcoming Olympic Games to be hosted in  London this summer, but we are not alone.

Converse High Tops, high-support airs and classic boxing or baseball shoes from the world’s biggest leisure brands are looking to make a comeback as UK fashion gets in shape for a busy summer.

So what footwear trends do you think will be popular this SS12? Let us know!

It transcends fashion and believes in taste, thriving on customers who know what they want. Because for all its allure the Shoreditch store still makes you feel as if you’re somehow among friends. You see these days of throw-away fashion and commercialism, where men’s clothes are more likely to come from a store in the latest Westfield mall than an intentionally decorous store location in Hackney, Hostem is a welcomed exception.

Separated into two main departments the store offers traditional menswear including, Visvim, Adam Kimmel and Mastermind Japan and more bad-boy style brands in the second department including avant garde designer Rick Owens collections and Julius.

While you wait for London Fashion Week plans and parties to fill your social calendar and begin to shop for good finds, be sure to pop by Hostem, you’ll be glad you did! We caught up with the owner of Hostem and conducted a short interview.

When did the store open?

Hostem opened in Summer 2010

Who does it aim to serve?

What we  have  found  is  that we  don’t  have a stereotype, so we couldn’t possibly describe him to you, equally we wanted to create a place that is not pigeon-holed into one set identity. In any one day we get anything from a guy in his late 50s to a young ‘street’ kid and everyone else in between.Undoubtedly there are customers who have a very defined aesthetic that suits their individual style but at the same time it has been amazing to open the minds of those customers that have not been aware of some of the brands that they find at Hostem.

What makes your store unique?

From the beginning we wanted Hostem to be the best men’s store in London. The store had a very organic birth, we knew the brands we wanted to represent but had no set ideas on the interior or aesthetic until we met JAMESPLUMB who created the interior; which plays an important part in the shopping experience.

The ‘Third Room’ is great and allows us to do all kinds of collaborative projects: The One Room Hotel (an installation by JAMESPLUMB which took place during the London Design Festival 2010) & Dr Romanelli’s Prescription Shoppe. Here we welcome any ideas and love for emerging designers to be involved.

The “Chalk Room” our newest space has a completely different feel and vibe. This space houses the more artisanal brands and offers a completely different experience & service from the rest of the store.

We also aim to continuously support the designers we believe in & stock. Whether it’s an FBT shoe by Visvim, a hand knitted scarf by Curiouser + Curiouser or a hand dyed leather piece from M.A+, we wanted Hostem to be platform where by all

Special thanks to Mr. Alex Wysman who helped me pick out my Vetiver soap!  Yeah, lads they even do soap!

HOSTEM
41-43 Redchurch Street
London
E2 7DJ

Contact +44 (0) 20 7739 9733

The geometric detailed cotton t-shirt is the ultimate eye-catcher. The boat neck and short sleeve design is ideal as the weather becomes warmer, whilst the wooden beading is a one-of-a-kind feature. For the men of style who are intrigued by this Burberry beadwork, the cashmere and cotton sweater has the same feature. A simple pair of shorts or jeans with a jacket would complete this ensemble, as simplicity would boast the artistry of the beading. The oversize gabardine car coat from the same collection would be a perfect match. The yellow trimming adds a tint of colouring to the simplicity of the white trench and would complement the beading beautifully.

The trademark Burberry trench coats this season do not disappoint. The tonic woven gabardine coat moves away from the traditional Burberry trench and adds a particular edge with the throat latches and gun flap. With a choice of dark pomegranate, asparagus and mid grey, it is a modern man’s dream coat and is incredibly stylish. The detailing of the exterior is also equally matched by the striped interior adding yet another tint of flair. For those looking for a more classic Burberry look, the leather trim trench coat is sophisticated, classy and true to its brand name. This suave long coat is a classic from Burberry and is true to its universally known trench coats.  It is a must-have from this season’s collection!

The spring/summer collection from Burberry has not disappointed. The colours featured in the line are both fearless and exciting, whilst the pieces remain true to the Burberry name. Check out the Burberry SS12 Menswear Collection, it really is a breath of fresh air.

Javid Rezai-Jorabi

However, we aren’t here to analysis human behaviour and society’s influences on our actions or ours on society: nature, nurture, morals etc. We are here to see how all this fizzles down to fashion.

Better thought out than the Joker’s museum rampage; Walter Van Beirendonck broadens the mind or the everyday suit expressing bold colours and announcing new textures and great combinations of style and fabrics. A collection associating utter insanity with pure gentleman sophistication.

Much like the Joker, Walter Van Beirendonck turns the deep-rooted (iconic even) Dior and Louis Vuitton-esque suits into pieces of art-work by taking these traditional tailored shapes and enhancing them with colour, pattern and print.

An absolute avant garde collection that allows men freedom in their fashion sense.  Funnily enough I actually believe the looks aren’t complete without the gimp masks.

One must always remember that what is represented on a catwalk show isn’t always the way you should wear things. The catwalk is a theatre for fashion being outrageous and playing with props brings a collection to life, and makes it memorable. I would defy anyone to disagree. This is a collection that represents art and individualism in the fashion. Strong and powerful, this collection finally gives me hope in men’s fashion.

This Clock-Work Orange look mightn’t be for everyone however one can use these designs and outfits as a starting point for inspiration.  As Men’s Fashion has been given 3 days this summers for LFW (15^th-17^th of June) I look forward to seeing what London designers have to offer.

By Andrew Demetry

On the minds of the designers, the press and perhaps even the models (but they don’t eat anyway), the financial difficulties of contemporary times resonated. Tradition and to quote Dolce and Gabbana ‘nostalgia’ were big. In fact, perhaps the biggest inspirations on the catwalk. Amidst the criticism that designers were playing it safe, showing nothing new and Milan’s overall conservatism (apart from Versace, obvs) we could not help but fall in love with the PINSTRIPE in all of its glory. And yes, it was in plural glory that the suit was unveiled, proving that there is nothing wrong with traditional, classical style.
Tailoring is at its ultimate, with many designers pointing to the importance of looking ‘inside’ the pieces, proving that if we are going to invest- we are going to invest big time for luxury and timeless quality. Milan is always a surety in delivering incredible tailoring and sex appeal, and this season the sex appeal lies in the very tailoring itself. Nothing overtly sexy this time, the collections showed that it is time to dig deeper and indulge in craftsmanship and lay our own sex appeal on to it. Wearability is high in demand. Sex will always be there- it is just down to us.

Nevertheless, we bring you one of our favourite suit trends that we thought says a bit more than just tradition and is sexy. The PIN-STRIPE says that the modern day gent will never forget the classics, but will also be optimistic and hopeful in harder times.

It’s all about style- taking what is there and making it ours. And thankfully, what is there, is pretty amazing.

The All-Rounder

Gone are the days when only ol’ Al Capone could lay claim to the pinstripe suit. In abundance on the catwalks, strikingly shown in a variety of ways with emphasis on base and stripe contrasts. Let it Stripe.

*Vivienne Westwood Fall 2012

Playing on the idea of boldness, Dame Vivienne went for brown with beautiful cashmere polonecks. With an all-over stripe look, choose a contrasting colour underneath so as to calm the look but remain effective. This is great way to play with block colours whilst still retaining a classically smart look. Sharp and bold, we love.

*Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2012

Over at Dolce and Gabbana, a different spin was put on the suit-tuxedo-blazer. Again, traditional and not too drastic, the effect was magnificent. Opulent tuxedos were toned down with softer wools and bigger stripes. A perfect one-piece statement, the striped tuxedo blazer is to be worn anything- just remember its essential demands, tailoring, pride and pride in tailoring.

Mixed Signals

Adding to this were the brave styling mishmashes of different stripes in one look. Heavy stripes on top, gentler on the bottom gives the desired classic look with an edge. A contemporary twist that demands style and perhaps a bit more bravery, but if pulled off well, it promises to be an amazing look.

Look to Prada for inspiration.

Prada’s show made more than an impact this season, both with its grandiose carpet which visually brought the whole aesthetic of the show screaming to life, as well as its use of the thespian elite. Adrien Brody, William Defoe and to finish off Gary Oldman took to the red carpet to present Miuccia’s latest genius. Spectacular- a word apt for the models as well as the collection, the effect was phenomenal. ‘A parody of power’, Prada said and perhaps this is exactly what happens when there is a clash of the titan stripes. A parody on the power of the stripe- but only by one well versed enough in fashion and humour to pull it off.

*Roberto Cavalli Fall 2012

So what do you think of the pinstripe suit? Is it seeing a return or has it been overworn? Let us know!

By Bojana Kozarevic

10) Bremont Watches – A much loved brand of luxury watch and one of the more recent to hit the market which are the brain child of a pair of British watchmakers, Nick and Giles English. Bremont watches are famed for their immense quality and intricate detail and they are crafted from only the finest Swiss components – a fact that makes them one of the most sought after luxury watches on the market which warrants them taking our number 10 position. Check out the stunning Bremont watch below:

9) Bell & Ross Watches – Another relative newcomer to the luxury watches market, having only formed in 1992, Bell & Ross watches have wasted no time in establishing themselves as one of the most striking and unique timepieces out there. When you realise that they are designed by aerospace engineers, the unique look and feel of Bell and Ross watches becomes a bit more understandable. They are set for another big year in 2012 and they have some absolutely stunning collections – such as the BR 02 Instrument watches seen below:

BRM Watches – Certainly not to everyone’s tastes but if you’re a fan of the more unusual luxury watches on the market, then BRM timepieces should certainly float your boat. One of the few French watchmakers on the market, BRM have many followers who delight in the unusual and quirky designs that they are famous for. BRM watches are somewhat of a collector’s edition as they only produce a certain number of their timepieces each year so if you’re hoping to snap one up in 2012, you better act quickly! Check out one of BRM’s creations below:

7) Graham Watches – For fans of oversized watch faces, Graham watches are the perfect choice. Designed and created by a British inventor by the name of George Graham in the 18^th Century, Graham watches have certainly undergone a radical transformation over the years and are now one of the brightest and most stand-out luxury watches on the market today – such as the Chronofighter Oversize collection seen below:

6) Panerai Watches –It is fair to say that Panerai watches are truly a match made in heaven – stunning Italian designed blended with precise Swiss craftsmanship. It is little wonder that these luxury watches are such a big favourite with celebrities and regularly seen up on the silver screen. 2012 is set to be a big year for Panerai watches – see if they’re to your liking below:

5) Baume & Mercier Watches – Another Swiss watchmaker set for another big year in 2012 is that of Baume and Mercier watches. If you’re a fan of understated elegance when it comes to mens watches, then Baume and Mercier may well be the right choice for you. Boasting a pedigree stretching back over 150 years, it is fair to say that they are one of the most respected and sought after luxury watch brands on the market. One of the most breath taking Baume and Mercier collections is that of the Hampton Classic – see it for yourself below:

4) Jaeger-LeCoultre Watches – With many stunning collections, such as the Master Compressor and Reverso collection, it is little wonder that Jaeger-LeCoultre are such a well-respected watchmaker and they are likely to have many horology fans chasing after their timepieces in 2012. Boasting stunning designs and incredible precision, you know you are buying quality when you opt for Jaeger-LeCoultre watches – check out a Master Compressor below:

3) U-Boat Watches – If you’ve got a nautical persuasion, then U Boat watches will definitely tick all of the right boxes. Designed for the Italian navy during WWII, they have certainly got an interesting back story and their unique look makes them a highly popular timepiece to this day. Another make that has popularised oversized watch faces, U-Boat watches are definitely going to be one of the biggest players in 2012. One of the most popular U-Boat collections is that of the Classico – see it below:

2) IWC Watches – Swiss watches are somewhat dominating this chart and we have another watchmaker heralding from Switzerland in our number two position in the form of IWC watches. These luxury watches come in many different forms and have a collection to suit more or less any taste – whether you’re after an aviation style watch (check out their Pilot collection) or a more nautical feel (Aquatimer collection), you’ll find something that will be your perfect timepiece in 2012 with IWC watches. Take a look at one of their Pilot watches below:

Last and certainly by no means least, we have our top luxury watch for 2012 – taking the Number 1 position is….

Tag Heuer Watches – One of the biggest names in the luxury watch industry and somewhat of an unstoppable juggernaut when it comes to the most popular brands amongst consumers of fine timepieces. It is perhaps fitting that a Swiss watchmaker has secured the number one position for the top luxury watch brand in 2012 because all the timepieces that herald from the neutral central European country are invariably of the highest quality and Tag Heuer watches rightly sit at the top table when it comes to deciding the very best luxury watches on the market. Tag Heuer have many stunning collections such as the Aquaracer, Carrera, Monaco and Formula 1 and each are an excellent reflection of Tag Heuer’s dedication to watchmaking perfection. Take a look at some of the most popular Tag Heuer watches below that are likely to be amongst the most popular in 2012:

So, there you have it – the top ten luxury watch brands to look out for in 2012. But which is the right one for you?

By Leo Parker – Watch Gallery

Aaron Ray Dowie entered the world of fashion properly at university, having originally started a degree in product design, even coming second in the prestigious Audi young designer of the year, but found a natural aptitude and enthusiasm for fashion design after taking a fashion module as part of his design course. Finding that a love for creating something two dimensional, a sketch or length of cloth, and being able to turn it into a three dimensional form was a massive draw for him, “I still get a kick out of pattern cutting something on the flat and seeing it take shape”. The journey of seeing something take shape seems apparent in Dowie’s drive to continue on his impressive career in fashion which has taken him from being scouted as a student at London Graduate Fashion Week, through working for Crombie, T M Lewin and a host of Savile Row tailors; and a belief that as a tailor he is helping his clients get into character, focussing them on their day ahead, making them stand differently and behave in a different way.

What makes Dowie get up at 7am every day and work his relatively gruelling schedule is a mixture of discipline, love for his craft and the desire to meet head on all of the challenges that fashion and tailoring throws at him. His day to day activities are varied, starting at 7am with the preparation of his own suit then he spends some time arranging his designs and samples for the day. He sees clients between 10am and 7pm where he performs second fittings or measures up new clients, making time to cut blocks and patterns for the clients that he has. His evenings are spent designing and making press collections. This is of course in between the two days a week he is teaching the menswear module at Nottingham Trent University.

When asked if his job was stressful he answered in the determined and focussed manner with which he seems to approach all of his work, “It is a stressful profession, but one that is equally rewarding. You are pushed to be more and more creative in a restrained area of design. Whilst tailoring challenges you with new body shapes and needs for each client. Each suit is considered a new based on different factors from weight of cloth, use of suit and body shape of client each element will change even the type of stitches and construction I may use.”

Dowie’s suits ooze style, from the violently striking blood red on black for the hit man collection to a quirky sartorial elegance in the Winston collection. The Hitman collection drew inspiration from an actual hitman with subtle details of his life woven into the designs. It is slick and sinister yet it screams simple class. As well as the meeting with the hit man Dowie cites cinema and computer games as an influence in this collection, “The hitman collection was inspired by the video game and movie (Hitman) but also by a real life hitman whom I met when I was doing no holds barred fighting. I interviewed him and based most on his life but then filled in gaps with film references, The Day of the Jackal being one, plus (Manga comic) Golgo 13.” It is probably important to point out here that Dowie is a three times black belt in a collection of martial arts and the fighting he mentions was a way of making money whilst he was a student. “I’d say there’s a lot of sinister inspiration (in the collection), seam lines run along the same lines that shape gun holsters, and trims in leather also reference holstered leather shoulder rigs. There is a black waistcoat cut straight and short in the same shape as a bullet-proof vest. I also looked at the driving gloves that Edward Fox wore in Day of the Jackal. They were suede on the palms and knitted on the back of the hand, so one of the waistcoats has a knitted back and small leather panel detail. The pocket bags are screen printed with fleur de lis, taken from the movie Hitman in which his insignia is the fleur de lis.”

Cinema is often a starting point for a lot of the tailoring that Dowie does with customers often bringing inspiration from Steve McQueen and James Bond. But there are obvious influences from other culture in his collections. He tells me how living in London affords him the opportunity to visit galleries, “At the recent Da Vinci exhibition it was fascinating to see the stages before the completed work. I have been reading a lot of books on advertising concepts and found the concepts for developing creative thinking most inspiring to my design process of late.”

In Dowie’s most recent collection, the Winston collection, the dramatic idea of character is again apparent. Here Dowie explored an individual (Winston Churchill) and used his traits and idiosyncrasies to form the basis of the collection, “I love to find a character and delve into their life finding out elements that can inspire the range further and give it real soul. My last collection was based around Winston Churchill, he was such an interesting gentleman with a past as an experienced solider, even the smallest thing can add an extra dimension to a collection. I found out that Winston Churchill saw depression as a small black dog; this was a nice detail that I included as a screen print for pocket bags.”

 
*images credited to Chesterfield Hector

The Winston collection has a whimsical English eccentricity to it with layers of textured colours and 1930s styling. The collection is based around the bow tie, an accessory you often see Dowie sport himself, and is also influenced by Churchill’s love of a Crombie Covert Coat. “Bow ties were used for the last collection as it was a trade mark of Winston Churchill; his father famously wore a navy one with white Polka dots which he adopted. Bow ties seem to have made a real revival recently. It tends to be the mark of the eccentric. I enjoy wearing them as it instantly defines you as somebody creative; it is a piece of clothing that isn’t usually worn in a traditional office setting”.

So as well as bow ties I asked Dowie what his style was, “I think each designer needs to find their signature of what defines their style, for me I would say it is a slim silhouette with a softer shoulder. It’s an amalgamation of a Neapolitan shoulder, a suppressed waist similar to the line of a British military jacket and a use of cloth which pays a great deal of attention to textures.”

Like the styles apparent in Dowie’s designs he is very much an English gent. He enjoys being in London yet believes that being from Merseyside nurtures creativity and helps make you a personable individual. He is always looking to learn and grabs influence and inspiration from the eccentric people in his field. He also likes to see others doing well and (as you would imagine from a man who does mixed martial arts and boxing competitively) relishes the competition in his field, “There is a great deal of competition with 1000’s of design students graduating every year and 1000’s of established designer’s already in existence. I think you just need to find your niche that you excel at. I know people really want to see gifted people who work hard excel. I don’t think you can take away real skill or ability from anyone and seeing gifted people at work can only lead to inspire you, and push yourself to want to exceed their level. You should strive to be the best in your field but enjoy seeing others who excel in theirs.”

Aaron is quick to say whose suits he likes, suggesting that Tom Ford works with great fabrics and is a wonderful brand ambassador and that Etro season after season offers strong colour pallets and clash patterns in an incredibly creative way. He also says that we should be on the lookout for Masc for whom 2012 is likely to be a big year. Despite being happy to recommend he refuses to be drawn on the designers he doesn’t like, suggesting merely that “Poor manufacture with a high price tag is what falls into my dislikes of suits. I think one simple question with one simple answer will solve that for me, is your suit canvassed? If the answer is no and it costs more than 600 pounds then you have a bad suit, or at least one which you are paying for ‘style’ over substance. Otherwise pet hates of mine are over padding shoulders and making sleeves too loose and baggy.” an English gent to the very last.

A new collection is due for release in February, a summer range with as Dowie puts it “Incredibly colourful linens”. You can find Dowie’s collections on his website Aaronraydowie.com

By Andrew Clark

The classic Argyle and Fairisle patterns are the most popular for men’s socks. They have been transformed and updated into 2012 with a surprising usage of colours, such as red, blues and grey being the dominant colour. Argyle socks are perfect to wear throughout the winter months made in cotton blends through to wool and cashmere. This traditional, preppy pattern can be bought from a variety of retailers. With this basic pattern updated with neon accents, argyle socks will add a touch of sophistication to your style this winter. Fairisle became popular last winter seeping into our wardrobes in all variations and colours and now a staple pattern for men’s socks. Deriving from classic folk weaving in the Baltics and Norway, this alpine knit is showcased in unusual colours this season to add vibrancy and excitement. Pattern stacking with fairisle prints in various colours produces a lively, youthful look.

Moving away from the fancy fairisle patterns to a simpler and sophisticated statement style, with a bold bright colour for men’s socks this season. Add a flash of colour to your outfit with a pair of red socks; from bright crimson, pillar box red to the more understated muted tones, red is a strong key colour this season on cashmere and cotton socks. This colour can be worn in many ways going from one extreme to the other, for instance wear bright crimson to bring a bold statement to the overly preppy look. Or be discreet and subtle by wearing more muted autumnal shades for a formal look, but still bang on trend. Ryan Gosling pulls off this trend perfectly, taking quite a monochromatic suit and adding a dash of colour via vibrant red socks.

If you’re only going to have one style of socks in your wardrobe this winter, then let it be grey marl socks. They are the staple style of socks that all men should have in their wardrobe especially for winter. They may sound ugly and boring being thick and grey but they bring texture and tonal effects to an outfit. Update the look of them with melange yarns to create a marble rock effect and the use of ombre stripes. Combining a mixture of grey and white or black and white with marl creates a sultry speckled effect, which adds a touch of texture to a smart style.

Brand Focus - Oybo

It’s always a breath of fresh air when we come across new brands, and Oybo have become that breath of fresh air on the sock front. With “one pair, two souls” being the motto, this small group of friends have developed a brand which offers uniqueness and fun. Keeping things colourful, the designs are clever and the quality of manufacture is another stand out feature. All of Oybo’s collections feature a pair of socks with a twist, one foot differs from the other. It’s a unique idea which could go drastically wrong leaving you looking like you dressed in the dark, but the designs are clever enough that visually you know they’re designed that way. Socks are a great way to add an individual touch to a look, but Oybo socks take individualism to another level. Here’s some of our favourites:

To check out the whole collection visit Oybo Socks, the site really is a breath of fresh air!

By Rachael Flynn